The best place to sell your laptop online

So I decided that I want to buy myself a nice new rc helicopter but the wife will kill me if she finds out….you know how it is! So I have decided to pull out that old laptop if have and no longer use, the laptop i have is a old Dell machine and to be honest i thought it was scrap value only however recently i have come across advertisements from companies who actually specialise in buying laptops! who knew.

The laptop i have for sale is a Dell Latitude E7440, not a bad laptop really featuring:

  • Intel Core i5-4300U 2.1GHz Processor
  • 4 GB DDR3 1600Mhz RAM
  • 128GB SSD Storage Device
  • 14 inch Anti Glare LED HD screen

dell laptop


The condition is also really good, i have hardly used this laptop since my days as a freelancer are over – these days its the iPhone, iPad or desktop.

I started searching google and looking for repeatable laptop buying companies, the ones are found were:

I entered my laptop’s specifications in each of these websites and prices ranged from £30 all the way up to £500 from To be honest this was way way more than i was expecting and instantly booked my laptop in for collection.

The very next day Interlink arrived to collect my laptop, the only downside was that i had to package up the laptop and that they did not provide a box, that said it was no major issue and for £500.00 i happily found a old box and packed the laptop up.

Two days later and i had £500 paid directly in to my bank account. All in all the full service took 3 days for the transaction to complete and i was very happy.

Next i decided to walk down to my local hobby shop and purchase the KDS 450QS RC Helicopter that i had been wanting for months, this model did not disappoint and i plan to write a full review soon of this model.

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My Favorite RC Helicopter – The MAXIR

Welcome to my little site dedicated to the new MaxiR micro-heli from R-C.UK! I’m hoping that this will be a good reference tool for MaxiR RC Helicopter pilots and that other pilots will enjoy contributing to it.

Why would I start a website for a heli with very small presence in the UK? Because I’d made all of fifteen flights on the MaxiR and already knew that it was fantastic! R-C.UK is a small company making a great addition to our hobby and could use a little support. Besides, I’ve already done another site, so this should be pretty easy for me to do with that experience and a template at hand. Hopefully it will be helpful to even just a few MaxiR owners out there and there will be enough satisfaction in that for me:)

max rc helicopter
max rc helicopter

Why did I pick the MaxiR Helicopter? Well, I sure liked the frame’s construction (see photo below) and the fact that it used the nice little Axi motor, which I’ve always wanted. Plus, there were rave reviews of the MaxiR posted by some of the early purchasers. The kit itself is more expensive compared to some, but it was giving very good flight characteristics without any upgrades. I realized going in that the MaxiR kit was more challenging to build than some, but for me that challenge is part of the fun and gives more satisfaction when it flies! Besides, most ARF heli’s require a tear-down and rebuild to get it right and they don’t come with instructions. Also, crash damage and costs seem to be minimal from early reports and there was a dealer in the UK.

You can visit the dealer/distributor website

Below is the basic frame of the MaxiR RC Helicopter. It is made from G10 plate, screwed together and is smaller than it looks! Servo mounts for a drop-in fit of the HS-55 are part of the frame assembly and stick out from the sides. It is very strong and has survived some early abuse thrown at it, including a freefall from about 10 feet, with only a pair of broken landing gear legs – a £3.00 repair.

Maxir Specifications:

  • 62 cm rotor-span
  • 21 ball bearings
  • adjustbale damening of the rotor head
  • Bell-Hiller mixer head
  • weight 350-420g
  • Battery: 3-cell LiPO, 640 – 1500
  • screws & bolts construction, almost no glue
  • recommended motor: AXI 2208/26
  • 3-D capable in stock configuration
  • flight time: 10 – 20 minutes


(click on photo to enlarge)  Here's a nice photo of the "scale-like" body done by Maurizio Panico from Italy. I haven't done mine yet, but this sure is an inspiration!
(click on photo to enlarge)
Here’s a nice photo of the “scale-like” body done by Maurizio Panico from Italy. I haven’t done mine yet, but this sure is an inspiration!

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RC Helicopter tips and tricks

Dominic was one of the first if not the first person in North America to get a MaxiR. His enthusiastic posts were the most influencial factor in my decision to purchase one. I tell him that “it’s all his fault” :) Here’s four handy tips from him.


Are you tired of those broken landing gear? Don’t throw those away !!! Remember, recycling is good? Just use CA and shrink tube the color of your choice … a little heat , et Voilà !!!

(click on photos to enlarge)
Why don’t we find a way to prevent the landing gear from breaking in the first place? Avoiding crashes is a solution, but not in my case, haahaaaa. Use a trusty tie-rap instead of the screw to secure the landing gear to the frame. I’ve never broken a landing gear since! Now I have a lot of the landing gear with shrink tube lying around.
Tired of having the front tail pinion strip after a small contact with the ground??? I discovered that the tail blade doesn’t rotate much in the blade holder. Use sandpaper to shape the base of the tail blade round … to permit more rotation. If the tail blade hits something, it will absorb more energy and prevent the pinion from stripping. It’s very rare that I have to change a pinion now.
How much time does it take to put back the small anti-rotation pin that goes in the head thru a small hole? Hours? I bought a 4 foot long steel rod at the hobby shop. I now have a lot to work with. Instead of trying to hold the small original pin at the tip of my long nose pliers, I can use my hand to guide the rod in. I align both holes in the head with the one in the shaft and then use my hand to guide the rod thru them. Then I cut and bend it to prevent ejection while in flight. The diameter of the rod that I use is 0.0030 inch.

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Upgrade for the MaxiR freewheel kit

Second ball bearing below the freewheel hub adds stability!
Russ Beck kindly offered this info about the MaxiR one-way bearing kit improvements. A few of us have encountered issues with the original one-way kit, so it’s good to hear about improvements coming soon. Russ sorta reverse engineered what he thought LAHeli was doing. An extra ball bearing is added to the bottom of the spur gear to support the bottom end of the main shaft. According to Russ, this really stabilizes the main spur gear. With his permision, his info is presented here. Since this article was originally presented, the LAHlei upgrade part #Y1555 has reached our shores.

Above is the finished version of the upgrade done by Russ.
Above is the finished version of the upgrade done by Russ.
Above is a photo of the plastic upgrade for the freewheel kit installed.
Above is a photo of the plastic upgrade for the freewheel kit installed.


Above is a photo showing the parts used and mods done by Russ.
Above is a photo showing the parts used and mods done by Russ.

La Heli has come out with another upgrade! Most of us like the idea of a one-way on our heli’s but there is a trade off most of the time, we have to deal with a main gear that is not solid to the main shaft when the one-way bearing is not engaged. While searching around on the La Heli web site I found the third attached picture and inquired about this new part. They mentioned that this new part would be made of plastic and being the impatient person I am I keep racking my brain on how they created the part in the third picture, and finally the light came on. They took a Y1552 hub (in the picture it was actually Y7552 red anodized part) flipped it upside down and removed some material off the face so that the 3mm ID 6mm OD bearing would hold about 2mm of the bottom end of the main shaft. The Y1553 One-way collar also needs to be cut on both ends

The end that rides on the upper (original bearing) needs to be cut so that there is around 1 mm clearance to the face of the one-way bearing. The other end I trimmed to allow about 2mm of clean unchamfered shaft to protrude out (you could go for more). Then you have to remove enough material from the face of the second Y1552 to allow the bottom new bearing to hold the end of the main shaft. Warning the face of the Y1552 must be square with the cylinder that the 3mm ID 6mm OD bearing rides in. After all this I am very happy to report that this upgrade works GREAT! You cannot move the Main Gear independently of the main shaft at all. The good news is that LA Heli has produced a one-way second bearing hub (shown on left), so we don’t have to go through this. But I am sure everyone will be very happy with the results.

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Maxir spare parts suggestions

“What spare parts do I need for my MaxiR?”, is a complex question. Having experimented with a bunch of crashes lately, I’m getting a better feel for what is really needed, hehe. Some folks want to get only a minimal amount of spares at first and others want to have a good stock (and these parts are fairly cheap) to cover the all of the possibilities. The chart below is just my best guess at what might be suitable for the range of needs. The high priority items would stand a good chance of being all that’s needed for a few crashes. Keep in mind that for many “incidents”, you might only need to replace a pinion or similar.

Where different from the base kit, the SE part numbers are in bold and if a colour choice is needed the part number is in the appropriate colour.

MaxiR part
Part number
Recommended quantity
motor drive pinion
4 (2 per pkg.)
tail drive pinion

2 (2 per pkg.)
Y0555 comes with all current kits and is for the newer 110/42 main gear
cross head shaft

Unless you want to hammer them straight – then get 1 spare
skid support front
can often be repaired
skid support rear
can often be repaired
main shaft
large crash kit
contains parts not suitable for SE kit
rotor blades

1 set
I’ve only broken 1 set of the plastic ones (also 1 set of F/G), but one always should have a spare set:)
undercarriage triangle
2 (2 per pkg.)

The Y0306 can usually can be straightened….
2 (2 per pkg.)
Can pop off and get lost
Canopy suport


Or just get some 1.5 mm CF rod for the Y0184
tail boom


Bent original once, but still using it. I feel uncomfortable without a spare, though…….
conned gear
2 (2 per pkg.)
I’ve replaced only one as a mintenance item when I replaced the tail drive shaft (shaft was a wear issue, not damage).
pushrod long
2 (2 per pkg.)
blade holder lever
2 (2 per pkg.)
pushrod with ball junction
2 (2 per pkg.)
blade holder lower
2 (2 per pkg.)
ball junction long
3 (3 per pkg.)
maintenance item
ball junction short
3 (3 per pkg.)
maintenance item
bolt M1.6 x 6
2 (2 per pkg.)
Try finding one of those the day you twist one off with a little too much force, hehe
bearing 2x6x2.5
you will need these sooner or later
bearing 3x6x2.5
you will need these sooner or later
main gear
Y0502, Y1502,Y0552, Y1572

Haven’t broken one yet
motor holder
2 (2 per pkg.) maintenance item – can strip threads after awhile
Tiny things that could get lost off a picnic table and ruin your day
servo pin
3 (3 per pkg.)
pin, 1 x 10
2 (2 per pkg.)
pin for rotor head levers
2 (2 per pkg.) good reason to have 1.5 mm carbon rod on hand
pin for tail rotor blades
2 (2 per pkg.) good reason to have 2 mm carbon rod on hand
tail blade pin
2 (2 per pkg.)


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Outfitting a MaxiR RC Helicopter

Here’s a list of the iems needed to complete the MaxiR. Recommended and hopefully increasing numbers of alternate items are shown, along with what I use. Note that the blades and pinion are included.

MaxiR Componenets

Recommended by LAHeli
My MaxiR’s setup


Axi 2208/26
Axi 2208/26
Axi 2208/20


8 amp, 3 cell LiPO capable
LAHeli optimized, preset controllerY9008

TMM 1210-3 Heli
TMM 2512-3 HeliC/C Phoenix 10



H/H to bring out the best in the heli Zoom (Telebee) micro H/H
Futaba GY-240Futaba GY-401

Collective servos

3 servos, 9 grams
HS-55/ mounts made for these servos and alternatives would rewuire mods to fit.
AIrtronics 94091Z (see this thread)HS-56 (needs mounting mods)

Futaba 3108 (no spare gear sets??)

Tail rotor servo

fast 9gram servo


E-Tec 3S 1250 HPThunder Power PL 1320

ThunderPower 900 & 1320KOKAM 910


Micro, 5-7 channel
Jeti REX7
JR R610 UL


Here’s a list of the other things needed or desireable to finish the MaxiR:

  • Allen wrenches or drivers: 1.5mm (wrench included with kit); 2.5mm (motor mount screws)
  • Socket drivers: 4mm, 4.5mm
  • Phillips drivers
  • razor knife
  • emery paper
  • needle files – I found a small tapered round file to be useful
  • a bit of CA glue – I like the black CA for heli use
  • Anaerobic glue for assembling the plastic swash (Loctite 638). I just used a carefully applied dab of black CA…..
  • paint for the canopy – I like and recommend neon colours for fast small heli’s.
  • small ty-raps
  • 2mm threaded rod and nuts to balance main and tail rotor blades
  • thin black 2-sided servo tape for mounting the receiver, or other means

Recommended MaxiR upgrades:

  • Alu swash for 3D/heavy usage (stock swash worked fine for 12 hours of flight, but it had a tiny bit of slop)
  • Freewheel kit with extra bearing mod (It flies fine as stock, but if you like doing autorotations….)
  • 3-D paddles make the roll rate really good!

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MaxiR RC 4 blade Heli tips

I’m happy to report my successful flights on this neat heli. I used a

Multiplex EVO9 transmitter
Multiplex EVO9 transmitter

with its easy virtual swashplate rotation programming.

The MaxiR 4’s manual called for 45 degree timming, but I eventually found that I needed to set +45 degrees on this transmitter. Once I got that sorted, I quiclky moved onto the first successful flights beyond just hovering as shown here. I expected the heli to be a real challenge to fly, but it is not!

  • Minimize control throws
  • Use a freewheel upgrade as well as the new tail pinion (increased mass of 4 blades)
  • Check that the swash tilts the same way as the control stick
  • Get it sorted doing hovering only with training gear
  • Use a 15T pinion and aim for 1700 rpm
  • Have at ‘er, but be prepared for minor flight control differences from a 2 bladed heli


Equipment tips

Telebee gyro (Zoom, Align, etc.): When flying in cold weather, this gyro requires a procedure to acclimate to the temperature. Start it up for 5 minutes, then power down and turn it back on. For this purpose I use a small receiver pack so the LiPO’s don’t get cold. HS-50 servo: Use some good clear tape to wrap around the case to keep it from splitting apart.Get a micro antenna: I’ve had good results with two different brands of micro antennas. They save weight and give a much neater installation! Photos/info here:


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MaxiR RC Helicopter TIPS Page

For now, this tips page is a work in progress, with tips added piecemeal. Would you like to submit a MaxiR tip? Please submit via email along with the name or internet alias that you’d like used for credit and your submission will be added with thanks.

MaxiR Assembly Tips

  • Beware that the current version of the MaxiR kit instructions is not very complete! One must think ahead a bit and imagine the sequence of assembly rather than blindly follow the instructions like they were a complete sequence of assembly or something… like I did:) In this regard, one should install the tail boom support holder, pushrod guide and servo mounts before capping off both ends of the tail boom (mount or gearbox).
  • Don’t force bearings onto shafts! This will make it very hard to take apart. While others have reported issues in other areas like the main shaft and tail rotor, the only one I had to adjust was the cross head shaft. It really is a trivial matter to chuck it up in a drill or dremel and wrap it with a piece of emery paper for a few brief runs, followed by trial fits. I think that this is better than having too loose a fit in the bearing!
  • The tail rotor blade grip bearings tripped me up a bit. FInd a brass tube to match the O.D. of the bearing and use it to press the bearing all the way to its seat.
  • Take your time on the entire tail boom assembly. Careful assembly will save headaches later on. Don’t be afraid to take it apart and look for binding or sources of vibration. Make sure that it has a very free feel when giving the drive pinion a spin.
  • The MaxiR’s tail rotor case tends to twist on the boom, sometimes after an incident, sometimes from the torque alone. Some folks have carefully drilled a hole through the case and boom and fixed the two together with a tiny self-tapping screw. I went a simpler route and used a small drop of black CA on the joint, until I get some tiny screws.
  • When fitting the bronze pins that hold the main gear and rotor head to the shaft, I line up the holes by holding the assembly up to the light. Then I use first a fine pin, then a thicker one to help with any needed alignment. Before all this, it’s worth making sure that the bronze pin can be inserted to each part without much force.
  • If there’s more than a little bit of the main shaft poking out through the bottom of the main gear, then you need to flip the shaft around.
  • Freewheel kit issue: There was some problems with the first freewheel kit. Now there’s an upgrade with a second ball bearing and a cap to hold it under the main gear. Use that.
  • Check all main shafts before you use them. Some of them have a slight bow and I wonder if it’s done when the holes for the pins are drilled becaue the bends seem to be in that area. Anyway, it’s a lot easier for all parties if the shaft is checked before use and returned unused. I check mine by holding them on a true level with a light behind to see any gaps between the two. I’m checking all the ones that I get in to sell now…….

Modification for easy pinion replacement:

In my MaxiR manual on page 10, under “service Bulletin” (after fitting tail drive pinion), they describe cutting a hole in the upper part of the box and normally having it covered with adhesive tape. When a pinion needs replacing, squeeze the pinion with pliers until it is deformed so it comes off easily. Then remove the tape and insert a screwdriver into the gearbox, using it to support the crown gear against being driven into its mate on the tail rotor shaft while the new pinion is pressed on. This eliminates the need to disassemble the gearbox.

On the left is a photo of the slot I cut ….. Note that the white dome is not really the crown gear, but some grease on the end of it. I marked the location of the hole from the inside of the case with the gearbox assembled and the bottom removed . I used an Exacto knife to draw a line just inside the crown gear and another against the plastic spacer, so that the screwdriver could pass between the two. Also shown is the way I bent the “L” pins inward a bit to fit without excess tension/friction.

The first time that I tried installing a new tail drive pinion proved to be a bust without a third hand to “pry” the screwdriver against the force of installing the pinion. I ended up just doing a maintenance inspection of the gearbox while I tore it apart. I think that an arrangement where a screwdriver or thin steel bar could go all the way through both halves of the gearbox would work better! Sometime later, during the rush of a funfly, I was able to get my wife to help steady the parts and it worked well!


Get a GWS puller!

The GWS pinion puller has turned out to be very handy during the building and maintenance of the MaxiR. It is great for setting the pinion distance along the tail drive shaft, pulling back from a too-tight position with controlled micro-movements. With all the undoing and re-doing gong on, this thing was a real boon for this! Also, it will just slip over the tail rotor blades and can be used to smoothly press out the CF blade mounting pins. Here’s a photo of this on the right, where the CF rod can be seen being pushed out to the right.

gws gear puller
gws gear puller


Balancing using a High-Point balancer:

I got a pretty good balance of the two tail rotor blades using my trusty ol’ High-Point balancer. Using a technique learned from the nice manual in the LMH heli kits, I bolted the blades together in a symmetrical manner so that the balance could be easily seen. Plus, as one increases the angle of the “V”, a finer result is progressively achieved. These two photos show two different orientations, the last with a steeper angle and most of the blades’ mass well above the balance point. While I’m doing this, I also rotate the balancing shaft to take a few different readings to confirm that it’s not bent. I assembled the tail without balancing at first, and twirling the tail mechanism by hand served notice that they needed balancing because of the small vibration felt. I don’t have any 2mm rod at the moment so I used a piece of 2-56 threaded rod that seemed to have a thinner diameter than most for some reason, plus I sanded down the threads a bit.

The main rotor blades were balanced using the same method.


A free, printable pitch gauge:

Originally I setup the heli’s pitch range by eye and used “hold in your hand” runups to adjust tracking. I was going to do the first flights that way, but had second thoughts and searched the EZone microheli forum for “pitch gauge”. WIthin a few minutes I had a couple of PDF files for a very practical gauge designed for the T-Rex. It wasn’t hard to modify it to work with the Maxir. Good thing I used it – I had to tame the pitch range back to get it down to +/- 14, hehe. With Tuan Le’s permission, here’s the files.

RC Helicopter Pitch Gauge
RC Helicopter Pitch Gauge

Print onto card stock and then cut out the two parts, except leave the hole for the blade in the pointer for now. Mark that hole with the following changes. Make the narrow dimension about 4.5 mm. Make the point of the left side about 10 mm from the vertical line. make the right side point about 17 mm from that line. This gives a snug fit on the Maxir’s blade and its mounting hole on the gauge’s pivot line, which is what’s desired. The larger dial piece needs to be trimmed a little shorter to work with the Maxir. What I did is fold it so that the angled part could be shut in the lid of the fire-safe that I use for my Lipo’s


Loose horizontal fin?
The horizontal fin may fit quite loosely on the T-shaped holder, as shown on the photo on the left. It seems that they’ve made a second “inverted-T” part that just isn’t sized correctly. No worries – just make a small rectangular washer out of aircraft ply or similar material that can be sanded thinner to make a snug fit and place it immediately under the fin on the holder, as shown in the photo on the right. Apparently the expectation was that the builder would CA the fin to the top of this taller “T”, but my preference is to leave it free to move a little.


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